Tuesday, August 13, 2013

Wrapping up

It's been a hectic last few days, so this will be sketchy.

Sunday:
- Southern wall excavations and Davidson center. Awesome tour. Very cool computer model of second temple. Exhibit of coins found near Temple mount both local and from around the world. Roman mile marker noting 1 mile from Jerusalem, that never made it to the right location (thrown away in the workshop when they had to scratch out the governor's name?)
- Last falafel in Israel in Christian Quarter near Jaffa Gate (Placemats with 6 ways to eat Hummus and what it says about you).
- International Arts Festival with Israeli and international artists, some cute performances for kids, and the kids first rock concert - a guy with a beard and tzitzit (Eviatar Benai) - excellent!

Monday:
- Pick up car (all Israeli car rentals are a complete balagan. They asked us if we had returned the car from last time! Duh - they checked it in and have it in their garage!)
- Cafe in Modi'in for lunch and then play ground
- Latrun to the Armored Corp Museum and Memorial. Fun to climb on the tanks and moving to learn about the loyalty and camaraderie and challenges of serving in Israel's armored corp.
- Great dinner and hanging out time with Eyal's family in Kiryat Ono. SO welcoming! Dinner, Playground in Ramat Gan, back to house for coffee (long night ahead of us), packing sandwiches for the road...
- Very late to the airport ...

Tuesday:
- Traveling all day. Now in Amsterdam, settling in for a long layover.


Really too tired to do a real summary. We're all glad to be going home, where we speak the language, don't feel like someone is trying to take advantage of us all the time, we know the "rules"of daily interactions. Sad to be leaving our wonderful family time together (what a great bonding experience this has been for the kids), and new adventures, sights, smells, and tastes every day (we've all grown and learned so much).

Photos to follow soon...

Saturday, August 10, 2013

Last Shabbat in Israel

A wonderful last Shabbat in Israel. We went this morning to the Biblical Zoo. We had a very interesting cab driver on the way there, who told his his whole life story during the 20 minute ride. He is an Arab, married to a Christian woman. He was out late last night at an Eid al Fitr (end of Ramadan) party, even though he doesn't fast for Ramadan. He told us that Muslim kids start fasting at the age of 7 (!) because then it is easier for them when they get older since they are used to it.

The Zoo was terrific. The only Biblical things about it are a Noah's ark center with a snack bar and video, and any of the animals which are mentioned in the Bible have a quote on their information sign. Overall, we were impressed with the zoo layout, the way the animals seemed to be very happy and well cared for, etc. The zoo is in a lovely setting on the outskirts of Jerusalem with lots of shade, fantastic landscaping, and beautiful views.

In the afternoon, we took a cab to the Inbal and went swimming in the Gold's pool with Eli and Noa. It was a great way to spend a little extra cousin time and cool off too.

Finally, in the evening, we all got together (Musher-Eizenmans, Golds, Grandpa and Jussara) for one last group dinner (and to celebrate my birthday) at Focaccia. Unfortunately, Jake wasn't feeling well, so he didn't come (we missed you, Jake!). But the rest of us had a great time -- except when Charles almost broke the restaurant trying to turn off the speaker by our table ;)  Good food, good wine, and a great time being together. At the end of the meal, they brought a chocolate cake and ice cream with sparklers in it - very nice!

After dinner, we went for a walk on Ben Yehuda Street as it came to life at the end of Shabbat. We ate more ice cream and poked around in the shops. There was a Japanese Christian singing group that was pretty good, so we stayed to listen for a while. After a couple of songs, 2 Swiss women approached us and started talking. I immediately saw where it was going, but didn't mind having a conversation, so we stayed and let them tell us all about how they believe that the Jews were created by God to be a light unto the nations, but that Jesus is God and died for their sins, and they encourage us to consider that in our own lives. I wonder how successful they are trying to convert American Jewish tourists to Christianity. Not very, I would guess. We talked for a few minutes, with me emphasizing how important it is for people to respect one another's differing opinions, and them agreeing and still trying to convert us. What a country!

I polled our family this morning on some summary thoughts as we wind down our trip. Here are the results --

What is your favorite thing about Israel:

Abe: It's truly inspiring the way people came here from all over the world and turned nothing into everything that it is now.
Dara: I love that it's a place where you can be Jewish without standing out and being different, or even making much effort most of the time.
Ella: I think it's amazing that in 2 hours you can go from an ocean to a desert.
Jonah: Being able to wake up and not wonder what to wear. It's always hot and it never rains, so you always know you can wear shorts
Sylvia: Camels. Me saw camels.

What is your favorite food in Israel:
Abe: Israeli breakfast (falafel as a close second)
Dara: rugelach
Ella: shwarma
Jonah: hummus and pita
Sylvia: pink popsicles

What is your favorite city in Israel:
Abe: Historically, Jerusalem, but to live, definitely Tel Aviv
Dara: Haifa
Ella: It's a little bit hot in Tel Aviv for me, but I like all the shopping there. I also like Jerusalem a lot (I would live in Jerusalem).
Jonah: Eilat
Sylvia: Akko (and "where are we going?")

What are you looking forward to the most about home:
Abe: My house, my car, and bringing some of the energy that we've experienced here to work and living back home.
Dara: Cooking with foods I understand in my own kitchen
Jonah: Being with my friends
Ella: Seeing my friends, listening to the sound of rain, going back to school, and Pandora
Sylvia: Deer. Me miss deer.




















Friday, August 9, 2013

Taking it easy in Jerusalem

After the day we had yesterday, a mellow day was in order. We started by sleeping late (for us that's about 9:30 if we're lucky!) and then trying to get our things organized for packing to take home. Of course we have quite a bit more stuff than we came with, so it's a challenge! We got about halfway through organizing (you know, to that point where everything is a complete mess) and left to meet Harley and Gabrielle for lunch. We met them at their rental apartment in the cool neighborhood around Ben Sira, and walked over to the Vegan place (Village Green) on Jaffa for lunch. Good food, fresh salads and soups. We loved hearing about all of the off-the-beaten-path adventures they've been having in Israel

After lunch we walked back to our apartment to spend a little time hanging out with the Golds. We shared photos from Noa's bat mitzvah, ate the candy they had bought at the shuk (which they affectionately called salmonella candy - they were not impressed with the sanitary conditions of the candy store!), and heard some wacky tour group stories.


Sylvia slept a bit while we tried again to get organized, finally giving up and going out for one last Friday afternoon at the shuk experience (Abe's simile of the day was that the shuk on Friday afternoon is like Costco the day before Christmas if Costco only had one aisle and one check out). As it turned out, 4:30 is somewhat less busy than 3, as some of the shops are already closing up, and many people have gone home to get ready for Shabbat. But, there was still the same hectic, "I need to sell all of my pita before I go home" atmosphere, yummy smells, and terrific people watching. We bought just a couple of things - the kids got some (wrapped) Israeli candy for their friends, some grapes (special Friday afternoon discount), and of course, rugelach.



















































After changing clothes, we walked to the Old City to experience Kabbalat Shabbat at the Kotel (which we had not done when we were in Jerusalem before). We knew Amy and Charles and the kids were there, so as we approached I asked, "does anyone see the Golds?" and Sylvia excitedly pointed at the Dome of the Rock and said, "I do, I do!" (the Dome is gold). We met up with them just for a quick hello before their bus left for dinner at the hotel.

We hung around at the Wall for a little while, soaking in the atmosphere. Although the Kotel is obviously a very special place, our family has a hard time with the segregated nature of it. We talked a bit about how nice it will be if they go ahead with the plan to add an egalitarian section. We also talked about how the cultures differ on the men's and women's sides. The diversity of (Jewish)

people at the Kotel was amazing. Students, soldiers, tourists, black hats, fur hats, and more. We thought about how much stronger Israel could be if this diversity were celebrated by everyone in the country. By the time we left, it was packed on both sides and in the plaza.

We walked back through the Armenian Quarter and chose an open restaurant, Bulghourji, with a really charming courtyard out back. We ordered several Armenian specialties, but unfortunately they were all out of most of them! In addition to some more mainstream fare, we did get Armenian kubbeh (yum) and moutabal (a roasted eggplant dip). I tried Taybeh beer (a Palestinian beer) which was pretty good. All in all a good meal, and open on Shabbat!