Catching up on photos (yesterday)...

Ein Gedi (Nahal David)

Post-hike popsicles

3rd century Ein Gedi Synagogue

Pooh pacis at Kibbutz Ein Gedi

Kibbutz Ein Gedi spring water

Dead Sea

Catching up on photos (2 days ago) ...

The place of the paci memory

"Ella Valley"

Masada from a distance

A beautiful day of swimming in the desert

When you think of the desert, probably the last thing you think of is swimming, but that’s exactly what we did today. After breakfast at our hostel, we drove about 100 meters to the parking lot of the Ein Gedi nature preserve. There are two main options for trails there and although we are ambitious, the 100 degree temperature (at 9 am) and the baby in the backpack on our back convinced us to choose the shorter, easier of the two, Nahal David. Ein Gedi is an amazing oasis in the middle of the desert, fed by an underground fresh water spring, which comes from the mountains near Jerusalem. As we walked into the park, we started to see some plants and small trees, and a few animals like birds and Rock Hyrax (an animal kind of  halfway between a squirrel and a groundhog).  The further in we walked the more lush and green it became and soon we started seeing pools of water and small water falls. They were tempting, but we decided to walk to the halfway point of the round trip trail (about ½ an hour in) before getting wet.  It was well worth the wait. The trail culminates is a gorgeous, cold waterfall rushing off the cliff above into a crystal clear pool of water. It was not very crowded, and we stayed and cooled off and swam for a long time, imagining what it would have been like to be riding through the desert on your camel thousands of years ago and suddenly find this spot!

As the sun was getting higher and it was getting even hotter, we reluctantly left the pool and hiked back to the entrance. Planning ahead for our early hike up Masada tomorrow, we stopped at the Ein Gedi Kibbutz grocery store. The Kibbutz is really spectacular. It is famous for its botanical gardens (which we could see some of from the road as we drove in) and for its water, which it bottles and sells under the Ein Gedi Spring brand name. The small, but well stocked grocery store had everything we needed (granola, bread, a little fruit), and much to our surprise, Winnie the Pooh pacifiers! So, we, of course, got those too – the paci collection is growing out of control! We then brought our empty water bottles over to the dining hall and refilled them out of the taps there, which dispense Ein Gedi Spring water. Very refreshing!

Just as we were trying to decide what to do next, we got an email from Grandpa and Jussara that they were nearby at the Dead Sea Beach, so we went over to say hello. They were just finishing up their float in the Dead Sea and getting ready to head back to their hotel. So, we made plans to meet up with them later for dinner.

We went to have our Dead Sea experience at Mineral Beach. This beach, on the northern part of the Dead Sea (which is actually 2 smaller seas now with a dry area between them since the water level has dropped so much in recent years), had everything we needed to make our experience complete. We first went down to the sea to swim (or actually float, since you can’t really swim). Ella, Jonah, and I all succeeded (Abe was resting with Sylvia in the air conditioning) despite the kids having blisters and scratches which stung a bit when they went in. Next step to a Dead Sea experience – the mud. Mineral beach had big barrels of mud in a little hut for us to use. The kids had a great time slathering it all over their body and hair, and marveled at how soft it left their skin (Jonah thought it even helped dry out his blister!) Finally, a shower and a swim in a fresh water pool to cool off (we decided to skip the sulpher pool  - it was just too stinky!

We came home, showered and changed, and met up with my Dad and Jussara for a nice buffet dinner at their guest house, and some time hanging out on the deck watching the mountains turn pink in the setting sun. On the way home, we scouted out the parking, etc for Masada, since we are hoping to hike up it at 5 am tomorrow!

(Photos coming tomorrow when we have better wifi) 

Mini Israel & Back to the desert

This morning we packed up and picked up our rental car in Tel Aviv. After navigating our way out of the city (always the hardest part), we headed to Mini Israel. This adorable park features 1:25 scale models of about 100 of the most important sites in Israel. Oddly, when we got there, they sold us tickets and told us that the park is closed, but we can still go in. Huh? In August, we only open from 5 to 10 she told us (I can see why, as it was blazing hot, but still… huh?). So, what do you mean the park is closed. Well, we’re not open, but you can go in. Okay. Turns out it meant that the restaurant (and sadly, the popsicle stand) were not open.  But, the rest of the park was terrific. It is laid out, somewhat oddly, in the shape of a Jewish star (I might have chosen to lay it out in the shape of Israel, but no one asked me). The models were great - very detailed, often with moving people or parts, sound effects coming from nearby speakers (e.g., tiny people davening at the Kotel with the sounds of their prayers). The kids loved identifying the places we have been. It was a bit surprising though to discover how many places we had also missed! We felt like we had been nearly everywhere! 

You might remember when we were in Tsfat, and we went to the museum at Beit Meiri, and Sylvia dropped her paci into a construction area and we couldn't get it. Today at mini Israel, there was a model of Beit Meiri and (I am not making this up), Sylvia took one look at it and said, "member, me drop paci there. Struction area." Creepy.

Since the restaurant was closed, we went to nearby Latrun to the little rest stop cafe. We were hoping for just a little bite, but instead we ended up with a huge meal, such as I have never seen in a rest stop cafe. We ordered the large salad, which allowed us to choose 5 of their yummy salads. They charged a small cover charge which allowed you to take pita and pickled things from the condiment bar. Plus, we had our meals (luckily. Abe and I shared!)

The temperature on the car thermostat read 41 degrees (about 106 F) as we drove into the desert around 2 pm. The drive was beautiful and really interesting. We took smaller roads than we took the last time we drove into the desert, and the countryside was filled with interesting sites and people (mainly Arabs, we were driving more or less along the West Bank border). We passed a large military campsite (tents) packed with soldiers on an exercise. We drove through Arad, which had been described to us as a big slum where Israel had forced the Bedouins to settle. To our surprise, Arad was a mixed community (many olim, lots of hasidic families too) with big, nice shopping centers, new homes, nice roads. Arad's biggest problem seems to be its image!

We arrived in the late afternoon at Kfar HaNokdim, a faux Bedouin village. It was a friendly and laid back place. When we arrived, we were given some drinks (orange juice, water, coffee) in the shade, and then it was time for the camel ride. Our family rode along with 2 other families. Ella and Jonah rode together on one camel and Abe rode on another (I stayed with Sylvia who isn't quite up to camel riding yet). They rode out into the desert in a kind of caravan, led by Bedouins. Very cool! Meanwhile, Sylvia was planning to ride a donkey. However, as often happens for her, the reality of the donkey was a little overwhelming. So, the guy left the donkey attached to his friends (on a rope tied to the ground) and said we could just hang out with the donkey as long as we liked. Little by little, Sylvia warmed up to the idea (and the one donkey she was supposed to ride, clearly knew he was for her. He kept looking at her and trying to stay near her, even when the other donkey's he was tied to moved away). After a little while, she said she wanted to sit on the donkey, and she did, while screaming in terror.She came down and petted him some more, and after a little while wanted to go back up - this time with a serious expression, but no screaming. Definite progress.

After riding, we went into a tent for some Bedouin hospitality. The real Bedouins there served us first sweet tea and then coffee while telling us about Bedouin culture. We learned so many interesting things -- like how Bedouins can take up to 4 wives (when asked why they would want to, his answer was something along the lines of, "even if your favorite food is kebob, some nights you want hummus"), that because they can have many wives, and thus many children, Bedouins have very large families. After 5 generations, a Bedouin can change his family name to distance himself from whatever feuds or debts his large extended family may have. Bedouins are big on hospitality and have complex rituals to promote it and make sure welcoming a guest goes smoothly. When a guest arrives, they toast coffee beans over the fire (which he did for us) and then grind the coffee beans by hand in a rhythmic, musical way (which alerts nearby family members that there is a guest and they can come join in or help). They slaughter and cook an animal (even though most days they eat little meat). A guest who leaves on his shoes is indicating that he is just passing through, but if he takes off his shoes, he intends to stay. He can stay 3 days and be treated like a guest (served feast meals, etc) and asked no questions -even his name, but after that he will be treated like family. The guest is then served 3 cups of coffee - the first is a welcome, the second is that the tribe offers him protection, the third is for fun and enjoyment. Our host shared lots of information with us and then patiently answered any questions we had. Jonah asked how long it takes to set up a Bedouin camp when they move (they don't move often anymore, but when they do it goes fast, because the whole, huge family helps). He also asked where they get their animals (they breed them). 

Next we went in to dinner. We were seated around a low table on which we found drinks, bread, and many salads and appetizers. Next, they brought out a huge platter of rice, lentils, other grains, stuffed artichokes (amazing!), grilled onions and peppers, and more. Next they brought out skewers of kabob and chicken (also delicious). Finally, they brought out dessert - melon and pears, pastries, and jello (which, if you're wondering, is not a traditional Bedouin food!) It was completely delicious and our leftovers could have fed half the Israeli army.

Finally, we drove along a curvy and beautiful road (past occasional camels heading home for the night) to Ein Gedi. Our ears popped as we approached the lowest point on earth. We could just see the Dead Sea in the fading light and we are excited to see what we wake up to in the morning!

Note: Photos are uploading very slowly on our Ein Gedi Youth hotel wifi, so here are just a few and we will post more for this day and the next tomorrow from our (hopefully) better Jerusalem wifi.

Feeling like we're back at home by the King David hotel in Mini Israel
(our apartment was right across the street)

That's them...way out in the desert on camels!

Not so crazy about the donkey at first

Doing a little better the second time

Digging in to the Bedouin feast

Last day in Tel Aviv

With just over a week left in Israel, I suspect a lot of "lasts" are coming. Today was our last day in Tel Aviv, so we made sure to get in a few things we've been meaning to do (or do again). This morning Abe and I got up early and the kids stayed home while we went to the Palmach museum (museum date!). It was every bit as good as we had heard. The exhibit is underground in a series of about 30 little rooms, each of which depicts some episode in the story of a group of about a dozen young Palmachniks. The Palmach soldiers were Jews in Palestine originally recruited and trained by the British to be ready to defend Palestine in case the Nazi army advanced that far. When the tide turned in WWII and it was clear the Nazis would not invade Palestine, the British told the Palmach soldiers, "It's been a pleasure. Now, give us back our guns and go home." But, the Palmach soldiers wanted to remain an army on behalf of the Jews, and they did so, in secrecy. They mostly lived on Kibbutzim, worked 1/2 of the month and trained the other half, and in this way were self supporting. In the exhibit, we watched the Palmachniks as they trained, fought, became friends, fell in love, and in several cases were killed. It was a very touching story and over the course of the 90 minute presentation, we became rather invested in their (fictitious) lives. The only odd thing about the exhibit was that the Hebrew narrative was mostly made up of conversations among the Palmachniks themselves, from which the listener gleaned the history. The English version (which we listened to on headsets) was mostly history and background, occasionally interspersed with what the characters themselves were saying. I'm not sure if they thought that they needed to dumb it down for the English speakers, or what.

We had lunch at home to finish up the rest of the food in the fridge, and then set out for a long beach afternoon. The kids played in the water and the sand and had a great time. Abe and I watched them in the shallow water, ordered a beer from the little restaurant behind us, and eventually watched the sunset. A very nice beach finale.

On the way home we picked up burgers and fries to go at a little beach restaurant (it was a typical Israeli balagan [chaotic mess] with an inefficient system where they took orders and people paid, but they kept poor records about who ordered what, so when the time came to make your burger, they didn't know what you wanted and weren't sure if you had paid).

Finally, after living 2 steps away from it for weeks, we finally took the kids out to see the fountain show at night. The multicolored fountain on Dizengoff Circle does a little show where it lights up, spins around, plays music, spouts water high into the air, and shoots fire out of the top. It's pretty impressive for the 2 year old crowd! As it began, Ella took a photo of the fountain, and a 20-something Israeli man came over and asked her what she was photographing. Over the course of the next few minutes, he got flirtier and closer to her. I suggested that Abe get a little closer to what was going on. Abe approached and the guy looked at him. Abe told him that he was Ella's father. Mr. 20-something said "you have a very beautiful daughter." Abe told him, "Thanks. She's 13." Mr. 20-something looked shocked and dismayed "13?! Really?! I'm very sorry" and he hurried off. Uh-oh
!

The fountain dance!

Palmach museum, Rabin Center, Old Jaffa

Just when I thought I had Tel Aviv pegged as a fun, superficial place to shop and eat, it surprises me with a day of complexity and thoughtfulness. We had an amazing day of touring in Tel Aviv with Harley and Gabrielle.

We had been talking about going to the Palmach Museum today, so we called this morning as soon as it opened to reserve it. They only had 4 spaces left the entire day for the 1 pm tour. So, we decided to grab it and Harley and the big kids could go (and Abe and I could reserve for tomorrow). We made hasty plans for the morning. Harley and Gabrielle headed off to the Jaffa flea market and we walked down to Rothschild Blvd to Independence Hall. We happened to arrive just as a tour in English was beginning (for us and a huge international group of teens). The guide started by showing us a photo of the first house in Tel Aviv. He pointed out a window of the house in the photo and then showed us that very same window in the room we were sitting in. Although they knew this was the same place, they didn't know that facade was still intact -- it had been uncovered in renovations a few months ago. Very cool. We then watched a short film about the declaration of statehood and the building itself. It was originally Mayor Dizengoff's house and then later became the Tel Aviv art museum. When the Jewish leadership knew that the British were getting ready to leave (withdrawal planned for a Saturday), they anticipated that the surrounding Arab countries would attack. They decided that they had nothing to lose by declaring the state of Israel. So, they looked for a place to hold the ceremony on Friday, before the British left. They chose this building because it was respectable, but also safe (e.g., small windows, etc). They sent out 350 invitations telling people the time and place of the event, that they should dress up, and to keep it a secret. When the crowd gathered, they broke into a spontaneous singing of Hatikvah. Then, Ben Gurion read the declaration of statehood, a Rabbi led the Shechekiyanu, and the orchestra played Hatikvah once more (this time no one sang because they were crying or at least too choked up to sing). We went into the actual room where the declaration happened and heard an impassioned speech (maybe a little over the top) by another guide about the importance of Israel, the importance of peace, how hard it is to send kids into the army, and so on.

We then took the bus up to the Ramat Aviv Mall to meet Harley and Gabrielle for lunch at the food court. After a quick, but nice lunch, we headed over to the Palmach museum (the elite fighting corp of the Haganah, the underground military organization of the Jews prior to the establishment of the State of Israel). Since toddlers aren't allowed in and we only had four spots, Harley and the older kids went in to see it. I can't report much since I didn't go, but I will tomorrow, so stay tuned. I can say that they had a terrific time and found it very moving. Meanwhile, Abe, Sylvia and I went to find a cool quiet place to wait. The museum staff directed us to a room with photo books about the Palmach. This was the most incredible collection of photos I have ever seen in one room. There were rows of tables with dozens of huge books on them, with photographs given by the Palmach fighters and their families. There were several books for each of the three main brigades (Har El, HaNegev,  & Yiftach), as well as books about a Palmach group that disguised themselves as Arabs, and another that posed as German soldiers during WWII. There was a book for each of the illegal immigrant ships (e.g., the Exodus) with photos of the people on board, the birth announcements of babies born on board, and so on), and much more. We started talking with the woman at the desk and learned that she was 4th generation Israeli (and is herself a great grandmother). She was a teen during the time of the Palmach so I asked her if she had family members who were in the Palmach. She said no, but then said she herself was, and asked if we'd like to see her photos. Of course we did. She pulled out one of the books and flipped through it and there she was on many of the pages, 17 1/2 years old,  fighting for the security of the Jewish people. She showed us photos of her husband too, who she met in the Palmach. We also discovered that she has a second cousin who used to live in Toledo, Rhoda Miller (but not the one that we know and love). After looking at the photos and talking to this woman for an hour, we felt we had just as good an experience as the rest of our group, who actually went into the museum.

Directly afterwards, we went to the Yitzhak Rabin Center next door. This museum blew us away - we spent over 2 hours there, but we easily could have spent 2 days. The display is a big spiral following the life of Rabin, parallel to the history of the modern state of Israel, and interwoven with historical events happening elsewhere in the world. We were impressed by what a balanced view of events they presented (as Harley said, it seemed especially balanced if you happen to agree with Rabin). I was very moved by a video of him talking about his time as a young commander in the army, when soldiers under his command went into battle and were killed. He talked about how the experience shaped his beliefs about the importance of peace. The museum raised so many interesting issues, any one of which could be the focus of an entire exhibit - for example, the controversy over the Lebanon war, the controversy over whether Israel should accept reparations from Germany, the controversy over the peace process, and much more.  We were all very touched by video of the speech given by Rabin's granddaughter at his funeral (which I still remember hearing her give at that time), and seeing the blood stained copy of the "Song of Peace" that was found in his shirt pocket after he was assassinated. The museum was nuanced, thought provoking, and deeply engrossing. Around 4:30 a guard came around and told us the museum would be closing in half an hour and we were only at the half way point!

Finally, to top off this awesome day of touring, we followed a dinner recommendation that Harley had gotten from a cab driver earlier in the day and took the bus down to Old Jaffa. We walked a short way through a very non-touristy, authentic part of Jaffa. It was interesting to see the Arab families and the older houses after spending so much time in the very modern and very Jewish Tel Aviv. We made our way to The Old Man and the Sea (HaZakan v'HaYam). This was easily the best meal experience we have had in Israel. First, the setting is gorgeous. We sat up on a balcony with a beautiful view of the sun setting over the sea. The minute we sat down, they brought to our table a pitcher of lemonade with mint and 2 dozen small dishes with various appetizers - hummus, tabbouleh, cauliflower, tzatziki, falafel, carrots, purple cabbage, beets, potatoes, and lots more than we didn't recognize, but which were delicious, along with a big basket of pita (druze style). The waiter came along pretty soon after this all came out to take our order and we told him we weren't ready yet. He suggested that we needed to order very soon. We hadn't noticed it, but at most of the tables around us were seated Arab families. Their tables were also full of little appetizer dishes, but unlike us, they weren't eating yet. They were all waiting the last few minutes before the sun set marking the end of another day (one of the last days, actually) of Ramadan. The waiter told us that as soon as the sun sets the kitchen and waiters will be really busy getting the food out fast, so he wanted to get our order in first. We could hardly imagine ordering meals on top of all of the appetizers, but we couldn't very well eat all the free food and then leave! We got various meat and fish dishes, which were also excellent. Sure enough, right at sun set, we heard a call from the surrounding mosques, and the Muslim people around us began to eat (with the waiters rushing like mad to get the food out and a line quickly forming outside the door). The whole dinner was delicious, as well as fascinating!

Having eaten this huge meal, we were all up for a walk. It was about 5 km back to the apartment, so we figured we'd start walking and take a cab whenever we got tired. We walked along the shore and happened upon the fabulous, funky Jaffa port. There was a very cool photography exhibit going on in a big warehouse space, several smaller shops and restaurants (including the Nalaga'at center which houses a blind & deaf theater and a "Black out" restaurant, where the waiters are all blind and the food is served in complete darkness). We kept walking and seeing cool things, and enjoying the night breeze off the water, and before we knew it we were too close to make taking a cab even reasonable. So, very tired, but very satisfied from a terrific day, we walked the rest of the way. We're sad that this marks the end of all of our guests in Tel Aviv - it's been wonderful exploring with everyone!

Independence Hall

Extra nice bus this morning (Metropolitan line)

The blog today co-starring Harley (played by himself)

The first of two pink popsicles today!

Sylvia likes having her own headset (even if it's not attached to anything!)

Leaving a tribute on the Rabin memorial wall

First time on an Israeli bus!