Our Summer in Israel: Mini Israel & Back to the desert

This morning we packed up and picked up our rental car in Tel Aviv. After navigating our way out of the city (always the hardest part), we headed to Mini Israel. This adorable park features 1:25 scale models of about 100 of the most important sites in Israel. Oddly, when we got there, they sold us tickets and told us that the park is closed, but we can still go in. Huh? In August, we only open from 5 to 10 she told us (I can see why, as it was blazing hot, but still… huh?). So, what do you mean the park is closed. Well, we’re not open, but you can go in. Okay. Turns out it meant that the restaurant (and sadly, the popsicle stand) were not open. But, the rest of the park was terrific. It is laid out, somewhat oddly, in the shape of a Jewish star (I might have chosen to lay it out in the shape of Israel, but no one asked me). The models were great - very detailed, often with moving people or parts, sound effects coming from nearby speakers (e.g., tiny people davening at the Kotel with the sounds of their prayers). The kids loved identifying the places we have been. It was a bit surprising though to discover how many places we had also missed! We felt like we had been nearly everywhere!

You might remember when we were in Tsfat, and we went to the museum at Beit Meiri, and Sylvia dropped her paci into a construction area and we couldn't get it. Today at mini Israel, there was a model of Beit Meiri and (I am not making this up), Sylvia took one look at it and said, "member, me drop paci there. Struction area." Creepy.

Since the restaurant was closed, we went to nearby Latrun to the little rest stop cafe. We were hoping for just a little bite, but instead we ended up with a huge meal, such as I have never seen in a rest stop cafe. We ordered the large salad, which allowed us to choose 5 of their yummy salads. They charged a small cover charge which allowed you to take pita and pickled things from the condiment bar. Plus, we had our meals (luckily. Abe and I shared!)

The temperature on the car thermostat read 41 degrees (about 106 F) as we drove into the desert around 2 pm. The drive was beautiful and really interesting. We took smaller roads than we took the last time we drove into the desert, and the countryside was filled with interesting sites and people (mainly Arabs, we were driving more or less along the West Bank border). We passed a large military campsite (tents) packed with soldiers on an exercise. We drove through Arad, which had been described to us as a big slum where Israel had forced the Bedouins to settle. To our surprise, Arad was a mixed community (many olim, lots of hasidic families too) with big, nice shopping centers, new homes, nice roads. Arad's biggest problem seems to be its image!

We arrived in the late afternoon at Kfar HaNokdim, a faux Bedouin village. It was a friendly and laid back place. When we arrived, we were given some drinks (orange juice, water, coffee) in the shade, and then it was time for the camel ride. Our family rode along with 2 other families. Ella and Jonah rode together on one camel and Abe rode on another (I stayed with Sylvia who isn't quite up to camel riding yet). They rode out into the desert in a kind of caravan, led by Bedouins. Very cool! Meanwhile, Sylvia was planning to ride a donkey. However, as often happens for her, the reality of the donkey was a little overwhelming. So, the guy left the donkey attached to his friends (on a rope tied to the ground) and said we could just hang out with the donkey as long as we liked. Little by little, Sylvia warmed up to the idea (and the one donkey she was supposed to ride, clearly knew he was for her. He kept looking at her and trying to stay near her, even when the other donkey's he was tied to moved away). After a little while, she said she wanted to sit on the donkey, and she did, while screaming in terror.She came down and petted him some more, and after a little while wanted to go back up - this time with a serious expression, but no screaming. Definite progress.

After riding, we went into a tent for some Bedouin hospitality. The real Bedouins there served us first sweet tea and then coffee while telling us about Bedouin culture. We learned so many interesting things -- like how Bedouins can take up to 4 wives (when asked why they would want to, his answer was something along the lines of, "even if your favorite food is kebob, some nights you want hummus"), that because they can have many wives, and thus many children, Bedouins have very large families. After 5 generations, a Bedouin can change his family name to distance himself from whatever feuds or debts his large extended family may have. Bedouins are big on hospitality and have complex rituals to promote it and make sure welcoming a guest goes smoothly. When a guest arrives, they toast coffee beans over the fire (which he did for us) and then grind the coffee beans by hand in a rhythmic, musical way (which alerts nearby family members that there is a guest and they can come join in or help). They slaughter and cook an animal (even though most days they eat little meat). A guest who leaves on his shoes is indicating that he is just passing through, but if he takes off his shoes, he intends to stay. He can stay 3 days and be treated like a guest (served feast meals, etc) and asked no questions -even his name, but after that he will be treated like family. The guest is then served 3 cups of coffee - the first is a welcome, the second is that the tribe offers him protection, the third is for fun and enjoyment. Our host shared lots of information with us and then patiently answered any questions we had. Jonah asked how long it takes to set up a Bedouin camp when they move (they don't move often anymore, but when they do it goes fast, because the whole, huge family helps). He also asked where they get their animals (they breed them).

Next we went in to dinner. We were seated around a low table on which we found drinks, bread, and many salads and appetizers. Next, they brought out a huge platter of rice, lentils, other grains, stuffed artichokes (amazing!), grilled onions and peppers, and more. Next they brought out skewers of kabob and chicken (also delicious). Finally, they brought out dessert - melon and pears, pastries, and jello (which, if you're wondering, is not a traditional Bedouin food!) It was completely delicious and our leftovers could have fed half the Israeli army.

Finally, we drove along a curvy and beautiful road (past occasional camels heading home for the night) to Ein Gedi. Our ears popped as we approached the lowest point on earth. We could just see the Dead Sea in the fading light and we are excited to see what we wake up to in the morning!

Note: Photos are uploading very slowly on our Ein Gedi Youth hotel wifi, so here are just a few and we will post more for this day and the next tomorrow from our (hopefully) better Jerusalem wifi.